![]() ![]() And with all the wires and connectors and how the installer did things, it got confusing real fast. This probably seems like a very novice question, but I have struggled with this more this time than in the past as I have 10 fans in my correct system right now as I am running WCG and GPU grids more than I was before and I need to keep the PC cool. Note, I did find a site that sort of explains some of this, but I still kind of do not understand 100%. Anything I should know to avoid frying my MB or overdoing it? the differences between the Pins, PWM vs I forgot the other one, and the IDE voltage issues.Ģ. But that's another issue, so for now, the fan is working but the LEDs are not as I haven't plugged it in yet.Ĭan someone shed some light on two things.ġ. I have no idea why he had it in an Molex, as I read Molex seems to be less volts no? So maybe that is why the fan started dying? I am also looking for a ARGB extender, as the connection is at the front of the MB, and the connection to the new fan is way too short. So right now it is plugged into a Y MB slot, but only one fan on the Y, so I would guess I am safe to do this and not to over do it for voltage on the MB. I think the guy I asked to helped me yanked all that out and plugged it in to the AIO ports instead, he said it doesn't matter, same same. But it is not plugged into the same place as the installer had plugged it in. Note, I originally had a Cooler Master CPU dual fan heat sink, I pulled that out and put in a Noctura. So I ended up plugging this into an extra cable I saw laying around that connects to the CPU MB 4 pin connector. I can find a 3 pin I think, but not four. I cannot for the life of me find a 4 pin to IDE connector. So I bought a Sickleflow 120 ARGB fan that says it is a 12VDC 0.15A fan. He had connected to a row of 4 Molex connectors. And what I found was that this case fan was a DC12V 0.4A fan, but the connector was Molex, not 3 or 4 pin. ![]() Because of the above I just cut the wires and pulled everything through both directions. I just had to change out my rear exhaust fan as it was leaking oil and making noise. I had an installer do all the cabling and installation of components to my system, so the wiring is too tight and too organized to find where stuff leads. I am worried I am going to end up blowing my MB or causing other damage because I am not sure how or where to plug in the fans. Normally color is completely inconsequential to electrical performance, but in this specific case filtering away other colors actually helps eliminate series that are close but not quite what we need.I am incredibly confused about 3 pin vs 4 pin vs PWM vs whatever when it comes to power consumption of fans. This filter is what will get you closest to the style usually intended when one is search for ‘the Dupont connector’.įinally, just to drive it home, you can filter for color, as the black color is fairly universal to this style of connector. Next, select your fastening type - or rather, your lack of a fastening type.ĭupont connectors are most notable for their slim profile, which most achieve by not having any retention save friction. ![]() They do sometimes come in dual-row varieties, but those are a more complex search - for now we’re going to focus on the basic, single-row types common to hobby electronics. This gets you to the basic structure of a ‘Dupont’ connector. The easiest way to find the ballpark these devices reside in is in our Free Hanging, Panel Mount | Rectangular Connectors | Electronic Components Distributor DigiKey category, then apply the following filters: The style people commonly think of as ‘Dupont’ is a vairation of rectangular connector characterized by a very low vertical profile, black coloration, and a 2.54mm standard pitch. Much like the infamous case of “The Molex Connector”, there’s no specific industry term that calls out Dupont connectors and only Dupont connectors. ![]()
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